Welcome!

Our goal is to improve the quality of life for our companions and their loving owners! NCP offers a variety of services to help aid you and your pet! In addition, we also have partnered with more than 25 rescue groups across the nation allowing us to help an animal in need! We generate donations to fund the expenses of saving a life through rescue! Please help reduce our homeless pet population by having your pets spayed & neutered! We ask everyone to make "adoption your first option" and give a deserving pet that second chance! We welcome all rescue groups to join us! If you would like to contribute to saving a life, please scroll down and click donate! Your contribution can help make a difference! NCP will soon be offering Pawsitive Pet Treats on our website and all proceeds will go to our mission of saving lives! Don't forget to book the Pawsitive Watch Team to pet sit next time you're away! We promise to make your family apart of ours! Please visit our website for more information: http://www.northcountypet.com/


Saturday, April 7, 2012

14 Common Dog Myths Debunked - A Good Read

By Mikkel Becker, vetstreet.com
Although dog training has become more of a science than a craft in recent years, some persistent myths still mislead us when reading canine behavior. Don't let a myth harm your relationship with your pooch. Here, we dispel 14 common myths and look at the facts.

1. An old dog can't learn new tricks.
False. Old dogs not only learn new tricks but they thrive when trained. My late Pomeranian, Mr. Teddy, who was adopted at an estimated 10 to 13 years of age, was a training superstar in Vetstreet videos, which were filmed two weeks before he passed away. By the same token, older dogs without housetraining experience as puppies can successfully be housetrained. As long as a dog is mentally and physically capable of learning to perform a behavior and is properly motivated, it's entirely possible to train her. While intense agility training for Teddy was not realistic, teaching basic commands was.

2. A dog shouldn't sleep with you or be allowed on furniture, or she'll think she's the boss and will misbehave.
False. Just like humans, dogs simply want a comfortable place to lie down. If comfort can be combined with being next to their beloved human, whether it's right next to you on the couch, or even on top of your lap, then they're all for it. In rare cases, dogs will guard their sleeping and resting areas, and will show aggression when humans approach these sacred areas. This type of behavior will require remedial training. But for the average Rover, sleeping in bed or resting on the couch has no adverse behavioral effects.

3. When your dog has a potty accident, it's important to rub her nose in it to let her know what she did.
False. When you rub a dog's nose in her own mess, she often sees no association between that and her having had a potty accident. Nor does rubbing her nose in her accident teach her not to potty on the floor again. Instead, rubbing her nose in her accident teaches her that humans are dangerous and unpredictable, and she will likely begin to hide in safety by sneaking into another room to go to the bathroom, making housebreaking even more difficult.

4. A dog who cowers from people was likely abused in the past.
False. There are various reasons for dogs cowering, and not all of them are because a dog was abused. Commonly, the dog was not properly socialized or had negative experiences during her prime socialization period as a puppy. Genetics also play a role in the fearful dog. Other reasons for a dog to duck away might be that she has learned to dodge people who try to grab her collar, or she is uncomfortable with petting, such as having her ears handled. Unfortunately, well-meaning strangers often approach dogs by bending over the top of their heads and reaching down to pet, which will send timid dogs into a cowering position. A better way to approach is by getting into a kneeling position, with your body turned toward the side, and then inviting the dog to approach you. If you practice this method, it will be less likely to cause a canine to cower.

5. Shelter dogs have too much baggage. It's better to adopt a puppy to start with a clean slate.
False. Many shelter dogs are well-behaved pooches who, for an endless list of possible reasons, could not be kept by their original owners. Older shelter dogs make ideal candidates for people wanting to skip the puppy stages of chewing, potty training and mouthing. The interview process at most shelters also pairs canine candidates with the family setting that will best suit the dog's temperament, which can create cohesion from the beginning.

6. All dogs should enjoy being around other dogs. It's essential for dogs to go on outings with other dogs, such as at the dog park. If a dog doesn't enjoy other dogs, there is something wrong with her.
False. Not all people are social butterflies and neither are all dogs. Some dogs may prefer solitude and only a small, select group of people. Dogs also have their own preferences when it comes to other canines. Breeding can play a big role in their sociability, with terriers being notorious for contentiousness with other pooches. Other times, whether from lack of socialization as a puppy or simply an individual preference, dogs may not enjoy canine comradery. Even though plenty of dogs enjoy the dog park, not all of them enjoy the idea of dozens of other dogs frolicking around them and would instead prefer a quiet walk with their owners.

7. You should let dogs just fight it out when they get into a scuffle.
False (well, at least partly false). It's true that you should never get into the middle of a dog fight, because some of the most damaging dog bites occur when owners try to separate fighting dogs. There are some tactics you can use to break up the scuffle without actually getting in the middle of the fray. Try using water, a really loud noise, or even a distraction like grabbing a treat bag or using voice to direct them to do something else. Owners should do everything they can to prevent another fight in the future. Often dogs don't settle matters on their own, and fighting intensifies over time, especially with dogs in the same home. This calls for advanced training with the help of an animal behaviorist or a certified professional trainer.

8. My dog is trying to show she's in charge when she doesn't listen to me.
False. It's easy to attribute human motives like "getting even" or "being spiteful" to our dogs, but dogs don't have the same complex emotions as humans. The more realistic reasons why a dog doesn't do what's being asked is either because she doesn't understand what she's being asked to do, or the dog doesn't have the proper motivation to want to perform the behavior. For example, most dogs don't come when called because the payoff isn't worth it. When they do, they usually are put on a leash or taken into the house when they'd rather stay outside.

9. My dog knows she was bad after she goes potty in the house. Her guilty face says it all.
False. Dogs show a perceived "guilty face" not because they feel an actual emotion of guilt, but they are actually showing appeasement behaviors in response to their owners intimidating body language. Whether we want to or not, it's difficult not to display negative body language when we're upset with our pets. A 2009 study by researcher Alexandra Horowitz at Barnard College in New York revealed that the "guilty look" dogs display is solely attributed by humans and has no relation to whether the dog is actually responsible for an offense. The study found that dogs who had not actually eaten the forbidden treat, but were scolded by their misinformed owners for eating a treat, showed guiltier-looking body language than dogs who had actually eaten the forbidden treat. The guilty look is simply a response of the dog to her owner's behavior.

10. It's always the owner's fault when a dog misbehaves.
False. Most owners are well-meaning, but are simply misinformed or lack knowledge on how to train their dogs effectively. Blaming the owner for all of a dog's problems makes for good TV, but there are a myriad of reasons why a dog misbehaves, including lack of proper socialization or preventive training, or even the genetic tendencies of the dog. It's important for pet parents to push past feelings of shame or guilt; instead get started in the right direction with help from a pet professional using positive reinforcement methods.

11. Using treats for training is bribery, and the dog won't do the behavior later if you don't give her a treat.
False. It's true that dogs need motivation to perform a behavior. That said, the motivation doesn't always have to be a food-based reward. Dogs can be rewarded in many other ways. Reward them with playing, petting or getting to go outside. They can also be put on a random schedule of rewards with a lottery-ticket-like system so they never know when the payout will come. This system helps keep them motivated. For example: learning to walk on a loose leash may be taught in the beginning by using treats, but once the behavior is learned, treats can be phased out so that the only reward becomes getting to go on the walk itself.

12. When a dog chews up shoes or destroys furniture it's because she's punishing the owner.
False. Dogs chew on shoes, furniture and other human items not to punish their owners, but simply because it feels good on their teeth, it relieves boredom, releases energy and, in some cases, may indicate separation anxiety.

13. A dog can't really be happy unless she can run off-leash.
False. Leashes are made for a dog's safety. They should be perceived as tools that keep your dog from running into oncoming traffic, going up to unknown dogs or people, and prevent them from running way. Although regular off-leash play in a fenced area is essential for a dog's well-being, while out in public, dogs can learn to be perfectly content on a leash at their owner's side.

14. Dogs are great judges of people, so if a dog doesn't like someone, it must mean there is something wrong with that person.
False. In the majority of cases, dogs who react aggressively or fearfully to a person are not doing so out of a negative moral evaluation of the individual, but are responding out of their own self-preservation. With that said, there have been plenty of circumstances where pets have used an apparent sixth sense to pick up on cues that went unseen by their human and actually saved their human's life. However, the majority of dogs I see in my training practice are unfriendly with a person because they are reacting out of fear to a certain physical attribute, movement or the physical proximity of a person, and are not reacting based on any moral evaluation of the individual

Sunday, February 12, 2012

What Breed of Dog is Best for Me?

What breed of dog is best for me?




Safety – Some breeds of dogs are thought to be dangerous when in reality, any dog can be a danger to you and your family if the situation is right or they are provoked. A Denver news anchor was recently bitten in the face by an Argentine Mastiff. Does that make all mastiff’s dangerous? No. The various mastiff breeds are often referred to as gentle giants. The pit bull has been given a bad rap for years because of their use in dog-fighting rings, but those that are bred as pets can be just as loving as any Cocker Spaniel. Ignorance of the breed perpetuates the myth, as evidenced by a recent McDonald’s ad.
Don’t dismiss any breed on the basis of media hype only. If you’re concerned that a breed you’re considering might not be good with kids, do your research and talk to other owners to get the straight scoop. If you do decide on a particular breed, be aware that each dog will still have an individual personality and temperament. Not every dog from a breed that’s considered friendly will be good with children. Get to know the dog and his history before bringing him home, and never leave any dog alone with a young child.


Cost - Even a dog that starts out free or cheap can be costly to keep. Some dogs will bite you in the pocketbook more than others, and those prone to health problems can send you to the poorhouse quickly. Less than desirous qualities aren't limited to purebreds; my Molly is a mix of Golden Retriever, German Shepherd Dog and St. Bernard, three breeds that are known to have hip dysplasia. Guess what $240 worth of x-rays diagnosed Molly with at her first birthday? Don't overlook other health issues predominant in some breeds, such as respiratory problems with dogs with pushed-in noses.
Beyond health issues that can keep your veterinarian in new golf clubs, dogs that destroy your clothing and furniture can eat up your budget (and your sanity) too. Some breeds of dogs tend to settle down after the initial chewing stage that most puppies go through, but others are notorious for tearing a house apart because they don't like to be left alone. Look for breeds that are more laid back if you'd have to leave your dog while you go to work.

Size - Yes, size does matter. I've always loved the larger breeds, and while most are generally good with kids, they can be intimidating to those who are fearful of dogs. If you're looking for a large dog, make sure the entire family is on board so that your pre-teen daughter doesn't stay locked in her room because she's afraid of your behemoth buddy.
Some small or toy breeds are prone to being nervous and yap a lot, which would be extremely irritating to me. If you don't mind that they need a lot of attention and are constantly underfoot, you might be satisfied with a purse-puppy -- but be careful that you don't step on him.


Space - Whether you live in a studio apartment or have a large fenced-in yard can help determine which dog is best for you. Surprisingly, some large dogs adapt very well to apartment life (the Great Dane is one), as long as they are walked daily. Even so, a giant of a dog might do better with a bit more room to turn around (think bull in a china shop).
Having a small dog doesn't necessarily mean you don't need space, however. The Jack Russell Terrier, for instance, is diminutive in size, but makes up for it in temperament. This feisty little fella is a very high energy dog and daily walks aren't enough to keep him busy. He needs a place where he can run and explore, and to hinder him from that is asking for trouble.

Grooming - With few exceptions, all dogs shed, but some more than others. Anyone with a German Shepherd Dog will tell you that it's almost impossible to keep up with their shedding, but many think it's a small price to pay for such a loving companion (myself included). If you can't stand dog hair on your furniture or clothing, look for a Poodle or Poodle-mix.
Many breeds can get by with a simple brushing a few times a week, but others require more extensive primping that might include a trip to a professional groomer every month. Be aware of grooming requirements before you fall in love with a dog whose haircut will cost more than your own.
Several dog breeds are notorious for drooling. If a slobbering dog is a turn-off, you won't want to share your home with any of the Bulldog and Mastiff breeds.

Activity - Some breeds need a job and will make up their own if you don't give them one. Terriers were bred to dig, and dig they will if not kept occupied. Beagles are known escape artists and won't let anything get in the way of their nose on a scent (I had a Beagle who would walk into a tree because he 'looked' with his nose rather than his eyes). All hounds will howl or bay in excitement when they catch sight or whiff of any small critter in their territory, no matter the time of day or night.
You might be able to tolerate any or all of these activities, but consider how they might affect your neighbors too.

What about a mutt?
Mixed breed dogs can take on the characteristics - both good and bad -- of any breed in their genetic makeup. If you're considering a hybrid dog, make sure that you're acquainted with the qualities associated with both breeds. Better yet, for a loving dog with fewer genetic predispositions, head to your local shelter to adopt another of my favorites - the Heinz 57.

Monday, January 30, 2012

5 Ways to Dog-Proof Your Home

One of the saddest stories I’ve ever heard is about a Dalmatian who chewed open a brand-new bottle of Advil, ate most of the pills and subsequently died. Although my first response was compassion for my friend who had lost her dog, a part of me wanted to know why the dog had access to medicine in the first place. If the owner had made it impossible for the dog to get to the bathroom cabinets, he’d be alive today.

Another story, still sad but a little amusing, involved a friend’s golden retriever eating a stack of money she’d left on her nightstand while she was taking a shower. She was leaving on a trip the next day — hence the pile of cash — and her dog had eaten half her traveling money. Had she kept the door closed, as this incident caused her to do in the future, she’d have been flush for her trip.
Keeping your dog safe — and your possessions intact — is quite simple to do, provided you know a few tricks and follow these easy steps. Here’s how to dog-proof your home.


1. Baby-Proof the House

Years ago, the rescue I worked with launched a massive fundraising campaign for a dachshund who had chewed through electrical cords and burned out all the skin and flesh of her upper palate. She eventually recovered — after wracking up a ten-thousand dollar vet bill. Had the owners ensured the cords were unreachable, the doxie wouldn’t have injured herself.
Dogs may not be human children, but the same devices we use to keep kids safe also work well for keeping our dogs out of trouble. If you have small children, you’re probably already familiar with the plethora of baby-proofing items that are easy to install and cost relatively little cash. If you don’t have kids, take a trip to your local Target or baby store and check out your options:
  • Baby gates that limit access to rooms you use frequently
  • Covers for electrical outlets
  • Power-strip covers
  • Safety locks for your kitchen and bathroom cabinets
  • A containment system for your electrical cords
Although not made for babies, a dog-food vault is also essential if you have large or crafty dogs. However, even the most dog-proof lid won’t keep your pup out of the food unless you shut it tight! Before we got smart, our dachshunds foiled our two-foot high vault by knocking it over and working the lid off. Now we turn it until our arms hurt. No more bloated bellies!

Ways to dog proof a house

2. Buy a Trashcan Your Dog Can’t Open

Most dogs love to root around in the trash for delicious treats, like pizza crust, fast-food wrappers and used tissues. Unfortunately, this behavior has two unpleasant consequences: garbage strewn on the floor and/or a sick dog who vomits, leaves piles of diarrhea in unexpected places or develops an expensive intestinal blockage your vet will charge $$$$ to remove.
The most effective solution is a pull-out trashcan, but they can be horrifically expensive, and you’ll need enough under-counter space to install one. But if you have a large, extremely food-motivated dog, one who is obsessed with digging through the trash (Labrador retriever, anyone?), a pull-out can might be your best option.
For smaller dogs or those who aren’t as interested in plowing through garbage, a sturdy metal trashcan with a step-on lid is the way to go. Although these nifty cans can run you $150 or more, discount stores, like Target, Marshall’s or TJ Max, often carry them at much lower prices. I scored mine for $40 from Home Goods!

3. Close the Doors

I have dachshunds, which means my house almost always contains at least one cleverly hidden pile of poop or lake of pee. After a few months of these fun discoveries, we got smart and limited their access to our bedrooms and bathroom. Although we still find our dachshunds’ special presents, at least we don’t collapse into a wet bed at the end of the night.
If your dog pees on your bed, shreds your linens or otherwise behaves badly in the bathroom or bedrooms, keep the doors to those rooms closed when you aren’t in them. Voila! The same is true for other rooms you don’t spend a lot of your waking hours in, keep those doors closed, too. Basic rule: If you aren’t in a room that has a door, your dogs aren’t in there, either.

4. Banish Clutter

The old saw “a place for everything, and everything in its place” is especially apt for homes with puppies and adult dogs who like to chew things. Those brand-new $500 designer glasses? Mangled. Your beloved Prada shoes? Eaten. The spray bottle of Tilex? Let’s not go there…
Dogs love to chew; if they destroy your possessions, it’s your fault for allowing your them access to your stuff. Get smart, and put your things away when you aren’t using them, especially any kind of medication or cleaning products. If you’ve been meaning to organize your home, now is the time. Check out one of the bazillion websites that teach you how to manage clutter, and make sure your family knows where household items belong.

5. Crate the Beast

Left alone in an empty house, dogs can create a great deal of mischief. I’ve heard horror stories about destroyed sofas, shredded door jambs, half-eaten dog beds and clawed-up carpet. My dog, Miller, even eats books!
The single-best (and easiest!) way to keep your pup out of trouble is to crate train him and keep him confined when you aren’t home. Crate training can be a royal pain in the butt if your dog puts his paw down at spending time in his kennel, but the effort is worth having an intact home and a couch you can sit on.
Although this list of tips might seem daunting (and expensive!), dog-proofing your home is definitely worth the time and expense. Take things one step at a time, and make sure you follow through with behaviors that will keep your dog safe. All the safety devices in the world won’t work if you don’t use them!

Monday, January 23, 2012

Rainy Days: Indoor Activities for You and Your Dog

Playing Tug of War With Your Dog
 

 
 
Many dogs love to play tug of war - it is a healthy display of their predatory nature. There has been some debate over tug of war and dogs. Some feel the game causes aggressive behavior and dominance. However, the tug of war is actually mental and physical exercise for your dog. It is also a great way to reinforce the human-canine bond. The most important thing to remember is that there are rules that should be followed to keep the game from going overboard.
  1. Before you begin playing tug of war with your dog, you should teach a release command, like drop it. This will help you stop the game if necessary.
  2. Choose a dog toy that is designed for tugging. The toy should be durable and flexible. The best tug toys are typically made out of rubber or a similar material and have a comfortable handle that keeps your hand away from the dog's mouth. Here are two good choices:
  3. Kong Tug
    Orbee-Tuff Tug
  4. Play in a large area without distractions, clutter or dangerous objects. Outdoors is great, but the beauty of tug of war is that it can be safely played indoors if you have a bit of space. Make sure there is room for you both to move about and that there is nothing in the way should one of you back up.
  5. While playing tug of war, your dog might get excited and begin growling. This is normal, as the game itself is predatory behavior. However, it is important to keep your dog from becoming overly excited. A low mild growl with tail still wagging is probably okay, but anything more warrants a break. Or, if you are in doubt an any point, take a break.
  6. To take a break, stop tugging and use the release command. Take 30 seconds or so to go through basic commands like sit and down. Once your dog seems more relaxed, the game may resume.
  7. If your dog's teeth come into contact with you at any point, play should stop immediately. Let out a yelp, say "drop it," then take the toy and walk away for 30 seconds. If your dog seems relatively calm, you can go through the break with commands, then begin the game again. If your dog makes the same mistake two or three times, tug of war should be ended for the day. This is just to remind your dog to be extra careful with her teeth. It is likely that teeth might graze you from time to time due to the nature of the game, but once your dog understands the rules, she will be much more careful.
  8. While playing tug of war, it is okay to let your dog win! This builds her confidence and rewards her. However, if she misbehaves, you should be the one who ends up with the toy.
  9. Two dogs can play tug of war with one another - if they get along on a normal basis. The game should be supervised and the same rules apply. This will help keep it from getting out of hand.
Playing tug of war with your dog can be a quite rewarding experience. It is mentally and physically stimulating for your dog, and pretty good exercise for you, too. Have fun and be safe!